Framing - Help

[Greg]

I'm going to enter Paula's portrait in the local juried art show next month. I have to get her picture framed and matted. I have no idea what kind of frame to get as this is just not my thing. The rules are: It must be matted, framed, with a glass front, and have a wire hanging device in the back. Questions:

What kind of frame should I buy? Does it have to be an expensive one? About how much should I expect to pay? Can it be a pre-made frame, or should I have one made. About 3 1/2 inches on the matting? Should it be like a solid wood frame, or one that is more ornate, or a wood frame that has more than one color? I am completely out of my element here.

The picture is 8 1/2 by 10

[Debee]

Wish I had you and the portrait in my frame shop in RL.

No your frame doesn't have to be expensive. Price ranges are so wide that it is hard to answer that one. the big trick is staying within what you can afford, but remember that the framing is also the completion of your work and is worth the money to do it correctly.

I feel mat width is important. If it is too narrow your piece feels compressed.
The average width I recommend is a 3" mat. I usually have weighted bottoms on mine, which means an extra 1/2" to 1" difference from the sides and top.

Choose a neutral top mat. You can pick up on the colors within the work on underlying mats, if you desire. I do 2 to 3 mats total to add depth.
Please be sure to use conservation / acid free matting and backing. The money you save by using regular mat boards and backing is not worth the risk of what it can do to your artwork.

When submitting your framed work to shows where others are handling your art, especially ones who have little idea how to handle art work, choose sturdy, simple frames. Let the colors of the frame work with the colors in the painting. Not all wood tones are the same, some lean to yellow, some to orange, some are too dark in value, some too light in value. Don't go for guilded or ornate. These also are not the best choices for juried shows anyway because they can distract from the art.

Make sure that the hanging wire on the back is strong enough for the size of your finished framed work and that it is securly attached to screw eyes and wrapped.

There is so much more I'd like to say about framing, but time and space are restricting. Hope this helps a little. If you have a specific question that you'd like to ask just pm me. Best to you.

[Greg]

Hey that helps a bunch Debee. Here is what I'm thinking. Tell me if I'm off base. I am thinking of a simple wooden frame. Probaby about 2 to three inches wide. The color would probably be Walnut, or a little darker. The mat, 3 inches wide, I am thinking about a slate grey, or a darker slate blue.

Yeah, I wish I was in your store too. You could fix me up!!!

[Debee]

Greg I would choose a white top mat instead of the greys. The colors that are in the skin tones would do well to have a warmer tone mat. There are several colors by Bainbridge in thier alphamat, which is conservation, that work well universally. Arabian white is a warm white with the slightest pink cast. Talc is warm with a slight yellow cast. Matte White is one that works well on most, but could appear a little too bright. You will not notice the color casting to these white mats unless you are comparing one white mat to another. They all look white or off white. Stay away from the off whites that are a definate yellow. Your art has warm pink tones and that would proably clash.
Then you can choose a second mat color for underneath. Choosing one that compliments the color within your work is best. From what I saw of the image you posted either a middle value greyed blue or something in the rose to magenta to work with her skin or blouse. Be sure that it's not too dark or that will command more attention than the artwork. Another important element is to only show 1/4" or less of the bottom color. Less the darker the color. I use 3/16" and 1/8" as a standard.
Another alternative that I've used instead of a second mat is to do a french line. This is a drawn on colored line, the color that I would choose for a second mat, that is about 3/4" from the inside edge of the mat. I use french lines a lot. They will help to break up the "whiteness" that most people are not sure about on the top mat. The line color can accent a secondary color in the work that is different than the second mat.
Frame color: I would chose a middle value. The darker the frame 2" will appear to heavy. Also wider than 2" will overpower the work. 1 1/2" or 1 3/4 would work nicely.

[Greg]

Debee, this is great stuff!! I'm going to print this off and take it with me when I get it framed. These are things that an inexperienced person would not know. Since I'll probably be taking it to Hobby Lobby, this can help the person that is helping me. Thanks so much.

[Arlene]

Ok i'm going to almost agree with Debee. Most shows want totally neutral matting and framing...this isn't the time to pick up underlying colors.

I too double mat, but what I do is use a white, taupe, beige or grayish undermat and then use one of the neutral colors with a slight sand texture to it on top. That I feel picks up the feel of cp. I also make my mats 3 1/2" for anything under 12" x 16" and 4" for anything larger.

You'd be surprised how wider matting in a "non-color" really helps pull your eye towards what's most important...the art.

As for frames? I prefer keeping it to a light gold tone, silver or champagne for the same reason. I find those colors become neutral in feel and don't compete with the art. Too many times I feel even a light wood does. Also keep the frame simple and no wider then 1 1/2" wide if under 12" x 16" and no wider then 2" if over that.
Here's a view of my booth at an art show from I believe 3 1/2 years ago. Since that was shot, I've gone from using a combination of gold metal and gold wood frames to all gold wood. (it seems to work well for me. ;) ) The second pic is my drawing and me taken for a publicity shot. The tag in the middle of the glass was one saying I won the award...sigh...it's almost impossible to peel off.

[Greg]

Hey thanks Arlene. Since I've used Lavender and pinks in the blouse, I think Gold would compliment those colors real well . I've noticed that Purple and Gold work well together. Am I off base on this? Gosh I am SO challenged in this area. Thanks for posting the pictures of how your work is framed. That also helps me.

[Debee]

When submitting your framed work to shows where others are handling your art, especially ones who have little idea how to handle art work, choose sturdy, simple frames.

I personally love golds and silvers. But, when some one else is handling your works, such as local fairs, that are not savy on handling framed art. Your beautiful frames will be ruined in an instant. Even in the local art guild I have tried to educate themembers on proper handling of art. Yet, at one of our shows they gave the judge a ribbon to place on a special category and she used tape and stuck it to the top of my silver leafed frame :eek: :annoyed: :mad: Well, there went a $60 frame down the toilet. Framing hardware damages frames surfaces and a little tap of a gold or silver framed corner then breaks off the gesso.
Metals, to me, would be the way to go if you want gold for this. You could then replace it at some point with a gold wood frame if you'd like.

Watch Hobby Lobby and Michaels. Be sure to request conservation matting and BACKING. A sheet of cardboard behind your work can damage it in as little as 2 years depending on its enviroment.

3" is a standard. The framing industry has been pushing 4" mats as a standard for the past 5 years. Know why? They get more money. :rolleyes: But, that is not to say use only 3". wider mats create a more dramatic presentation. I have used mats as wide as 8". One customers piece I remember in particular which had an oriental feel to it and I felt the extra wide mat made a huge difference. The customer was very pleased with it. But the general public has a mat phobia. I can't tell you how many times I've had to convince a customer to use a 3" instead of a 1 1/2". :confused:

[Arlene]

1 1/2" there are some cases where size does matter....


and this is one of them. :angel:

Good advice about the gold. I have been lucky in that I have never had a frame damaged.